Waves of ruffles, the sharp lines of tailored jackets and glistening buttons will be familiar sights at the first Carla Zampatti runway show in nearly four years but the woman taking a bow tonight warrants a double take. The label’s creative director Karlie Ungar won’t be hiding behind her predecessor’s sunglasses, preferring to be wide-eyed as she presents her vision for the revered brand.

“Everyone would agree that trying to imitate Carla would have been suicidal,” Ungar says. “Those are enormous shoes to try filling. This is about honouring the emotions behind a Carla outfit. The glamour, sexiness and theatre is the legacy.”

Carla Zampatti’s granddaughter Brigid Schuman and the label’s creative director Karlie Ungar prepare for the first runway show from the brand since 2019.Credit:Dominic Lorrimer

Since Carla Zampatti’s death in April 2021, there have been many public moments to reflect on the designer’s impact. The state funeral at St Mary’s Cathedral in Sydney and exhibition Zampatti Powerhouse, at the Powerhouse Museum until June, honoured her strong connection with Australian women.

“This is an opportunity to show what the next chapter looks like,” says Ungar, who sharpened her pinking shears in roles at Cue and Saba before working most recently as an interior designer.

Ungar never met Zampatti, but after 18 months as creative director now speaks her design language fluently but with a different accent.

Animal print will be missing from the runway constructed in the basement of the label’s historic CBD headquarters, but signature splashes of power red will appear beside a bold new logo and a print designed by artist Lindy Lee as part of the autumn 2023 range.

“There’s been a lot of time spent in the archive trying to understand the inspiration, the thought process and the way Carla approached collections. The brand has a strong handwriting and consistency but I’m pushing that.”

Carla Zampatti, in 2019, at her last show at Australian Fashion Week.Credit:Getty

Ungar’s journey to the runway has been overseen by Carla Zampatti’s son and the label’s chief executive Alex Schuman. After a public period of mourning the veils have been lifted to reveal smokey eyes.

“We are trying to take the brand on a forward-looking journey,” Schuman says. “Carla’s legacy doesn’t have a beginning, middle and an end. It’s something that will continue to thrive as we dress women on important days and throughout their working lives.”

“It’s that balance between change and constant that Karlie is faithful to.

“Last year was exceptional concerning sales. It was about keeping the faith with our existing customers. Now we are setting the stage for the future, which is perhaps less defensive and more about new products and projects like this collaboration with Lindy Lee, which speaks to our values.”

With Schuman running the business and his sisters busy with their own pursuits, Bianca Spender overseeing her own label and Allegra Spender in politics, it is up to his daughter Brigid to represent the family on the runway, as a model.

“It’s been difficult because when mum was around we kept the next generation out of view. Now with Bianca, Allegra and I more in the spotlight, we encourage more input from the next generation.”

Part of Ungar’s focus as creative director is a new generation of customers but she’s not trying too hard.

“The Carla Zampatti brand isn’t about pigeonholing women into an age group,” she says. “Who doesn’t love a marabou feather?”

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