How Boden can win back middle class mums
- Now that Boden plans to go back to basics, here’s a note of what we liked — and what we didn’t. . .
- READ MORE: Boden boss says he’s ‘complete nitwit’ for trying to make struggling fashion firm too trendy – as he tells customers he’s ‘effed up’ after profits slump
You may have seen that Johnnie Boden, the man whose brand is synonymous with wholesome British style, has done something rare in business — let alone in fashion — and admitted that he got it wrong. Or, as he puts it, been ‘a complete nitwit’.
Like many a man before him, Johnnie, who founded his label in 1991, got the twenty-something-year itch, had his head turned by younger things, forgot his most loyal fans and in the process made a £4.4 million loss before tax, compared with a profit of £22 million the previous year. Ouch. Lesson learned.
Now, he’s determined to get the brand back on track and win over the middle-class mums who were always the key to his success.
He’s dumping the menswear (I’m personally sad about that — my husband has a midnight-blue wool jacket that he looks better in than anything else he owns).
He’s focusing on womenswear (the money-spinner) and children’s wear (the catnip for mums) and rowing back on the shorter hemlines and more youthful looks that just weren’t hitting the spot for his customers.
Last but not least, he’s reviving their hugely popular mail-order catalogue, and three cheers for that.
A big part of Boden’s appeal has always been the aspirational world he created in this catalogue — originally using his good-looking friends and their children as models — which became bedtime reading for yummy mummies and anyone (me) who got a dopamine hit from flicking through pictures of a glossy, colour-saturated, updated Enid Blyton via Notting Hill world of gorgeous happy families.
If you weren’t part of that world, you could buy a striped, hooded towelling beach cover-up for your five-year-old goddaughter and feel as though you were.
Henceforth, Boden will stick to what it’s always done best: a British version of American preppy style, with tweaks to accommodate trends, a sense of fun, and a refusal to get caught up in the twists and turns of fashion.
‘Let’s get back to being Boden!’ is what Johnnie has probably said in an email to his staff. And in the current climate, the timing of his relaunch is perfect.
Because what women want from their wardrobes now is quality without paying over the odds — and there’s no denying that Boden’s prices have crept upwards over the past decade.
We want clothes that are stylish, rather than precious, fashion aware but wearable. We want classics that we’ll hold on to for years.
In some areas, Boden has maintained this standard, but in others they’ve fallen woefully short. Here’s a note of what we liked — and what we didn’t. . .
THE HITS: SIMPLE CLASSICS AND BRETONS
Stripy tank, £80
Bold colour
In the monochromatic 1990s, before colour exploded back on the scene, the only place in town to pick up a fitted cardigan in a juicy fruit-bright shade with a clashing trim was Boden. Since then, every shop on the High Street has been offering us shocking clashing colour combinations, but Boden is still coming up with standout colourful sweaters — this season, a pink and red striped tank has been getting a lot of attention (£80).
The Breton top
If you’re looking for the classic boat-neck Breton top, you’ll find it at Boden in just the right weight; durable premium cotton at a good price (£28).
But they’ve gone one better and made sure they are your first port of call for all things navy and cream striped.
Breton T-shirt, £28
The label’s at its best when putting its quirky British spin on the American preppy look while borrowing just the right amount of French chic.
Denim jeans, £90
Whether it’s a silk scarf, a Breton T or a shirt dress — Boden owns the stripes.
Jeans
Everyone knows that jeans are the hardest working item in your wardrobe.
And to get the maximum smart-casual wear out of them, you require a smart, tailored, good-looking pair in quality denim to wear with a belt and a blazer, or a pretty blouse or high-necked sweater.
Boden women requires jeans that have the classic Levi’s ‘these-will-only-get-better’ appeal — only more flattering and elegant.
There’s currently a wide-leg style that has yummy mummy, yummy granny and yummy thirty-something daughter written all over them (£90). Which is, after all, the Boden USP.
Swimwear
Santorini one-piece, £65
In my opinion Boden produces the best one pieces by a long way: best for quality, for flattering cuts (special mention for the Santorini halterneck £65, boden.co.uk), best for colours and slimming trompe l’oeil panels, best for structure and support. For the money, they’re quite simply unbeatable . Also Boden’s rash vests are second to none.
Shoes
Every so often Boden hits the footwear bullseye. Most recently there were those snaffle bit heeled clogs with the studs (£110) — bang on trend but also one of those items that become a trusted chic-injector for years to come.
Other winning styles include the leopard-print ponyskin mini heels (excellent height, £130) and ballet pumps (£98) that are exactly what your trousers require to step up for evening. Fashion editors have noticed the tan snaffle slingback flats, too (£110).
Leopard print court shoes, £130, and tan clogs, £110
THE MISSES: MINI DRESSES AND PRICEY CASHMERE
Silk shirts
Stripe silk shirt, £130
A silk shirt should be a classic, and if women want one they want it in ivory or black, with a bit of a full sleeve. And for the money it had better be perfect (£110-140).
A striped or plain boyfriend cotton shirt is useful (Boden also does those) but you don’t want an expensive silk shirt in stripes, a print, emerald green or, heaven forbid, spots.
Bracelet, £38
Jewellery
Again, nothing wrong with the jewellery other than that there are so many places you would head to first — take your pick from Monica Vinader, & Other Stories, Zara and Massimo Dutti — were you to want a chunky gold chain bracelet (£38) or necklace with a dangling pearl (£45).
Boden should just assume their customer is buying her jewellery — and her underwear — elsewhere.
If you want to entice us with accessories, an irresistible tote or a green half-moon leather bag could be interesting.
Crew cardigan, £140
Cashmere
There is nothing wrong with Boden cashmere, and they were ahead of the curve on pretty, dressy, special knitwear.
But then the rest of the world caught up and now you can get your cashmere fix for quite a lot less — £99 compared with £230 — at Uniqlo, Marks & Spencer, Cos or Zara.
Boden’s cashmere is probably better quality, but affordable is the name of the game, and the neat and tidy cardigan (£140) is less of a useful wardrobe staple than it was. The slouchier high-neck sweater is what’s on our Christmas wish list.
The ‘going out’ frock
Tiered halterneck dress, £120
A halterneck mini dress with cascading tiers in a shimmering print (£120) could be fun for a Hollywood A-lister but not a real woman who has no intention of showing the tops of her arms, never mind her shoulders and thighs.
This is a classic example of how Boden got it wrong: too short, too youthful, too flesh-baring and not at all versatile.
The mini shift dress
Mini shift dress, £110
Dry-clean only, front patch pockets, to be worn over a skinny polo-neck sweater with a pair of Mary Janes (£110).
No, no, no. Wear this and we’ll be showing far too much leg and look exactly the way we looked on our first day at primary school.
You can see why Boden wants to steer away from clingy print jersey dresses (to my mind almost as unwearable, especially if they’re cut above the knee) but the mini shift dress was not the answer.
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