Standing the test of time: As Cartier revamps its iconic Tank watch for the first time in 25 years, FEMAIL reveals how the pricey timepiece became THE must-have wristwear for everyone from Princess Diana and Jackie O to Nicky Hilton
- Since its debut, the Cartier Tank has been worn by several cultural icons
- The brand has released reinvented versions in 18K yellow gold and stainless steel
- The original, designed by Louis-Francois Cartier in 1917, was inspired by the Renault military tanks that were on the Western Front
- Despite its hefty price tag, the understated elegance of the watch has appealed to Jackie O, Princess Diana and many other notable figures
- Cartier Tank watch styles currently retail from $2,790 to $94,000
If you’re not looking for it, it’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss detail.
But it’s been there with some of the world’s most notable figures from Princess Diana and Jackie O to Meghan Markle and Michelle Obama: the Cartier Tank.
With its timeless elegance and sleek, sensual lines, the iconic watch has undergone many iterations while maintaining its status as the preferred timepiece for some of the most memorable icons since the release of the ‘Normale’ Tank in 1917.
Representing creativity and freedom, past and present, the original Cartier Tank, designed by master watchmaker Louis-Francois Cartier in 1917, was inspired by the Renault military tanks that were on the Western Front.
As 2023 kicks off, the French luxury brand has released newly reinvented versions that – according to the house’s Jewelry and Watchmaking Creative Director, Marie-Laure Cérède – are about capturing the watch’s radical shape, simplifying its essential lines and returning to the myth’s origin.
From rock stars to royalty, including Jackie Kennedy, the Cartier Tank watch has withstood the test of time to remain a beloved style staple among celebrities and socialites
Cartier recently announced that it has revamped the Tank for the first time in 25 years. The watch is seen in 1917 (left), 2021 (center) and the new model for 2023 (right)
Gender-neutral, the evolution of its design stands the test of time as an enduring token of luxury and refinement, and a symbol of the Cartier legacy.
From royalty to rock stars and award-winning actors, the Tank has captivated the world’s most astute minds, despite its hefty price tag: it starts at $2,790 and retails for up to $94,000.
Over the past 100 years, the simple sophistication of this timeless watch has become the embodiment of French chic with an elegant rectangular case and ergonomically curved link band.
With each and every iteration, the Tank remains a symbolic representation of classic Parisian artistry at a pivotal moment in time, and a popular family heirloom.
Luxury watches like it don’t just tell time, it’s often worn during life’s most defining moments.
With that in mind, FEMAIL takes a look back at the Cartier Tank’s most famous wearers – and the iconic moments it’s shared with its owner.
First Ladies of the United States: An understated timepiece for powerful women
Cartier gets the majority vote with more First Ladies of the United States of America than any other watch brand.
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Michelle Obama both chose designs by the elegant watchmaker while in the White House.
Jackie O’s fashion sense could be characterized as many things – minimal, preppy and ladylike – but above all classic, with an affinity for sleek silhouettes and pared-down accessories.
Jackie O’s Cartier Tank watch was a gift from her brother-in-law, Prince Stanislaw Radziwill, and it has an inscription that reads: ‘Stas to Jackie, 23 Feb. 63, 2:05 AM to 9:35 PM’
Kim Kardashian purchased Jackie’s Cartier watch for $379,500 at an auction in New York in June 2017 – and reportedly wore it to meet Donald Trump at the White House that same year
Despite the fact having a large jewelry and watch collection, it was her triple-strand pearl necklace – said to have been given to her by her mother, Janet Bouvier – and her classic gold Cartier Tank watch that were Jackie’s signature.
The watch features a 20mm wide by 28mm long case, silver dial with black Roman numerals and blued steel hands on a black lizard strap.
It was a gift to Jackie from her brother-in-law, Prince Stanislaw Radziwill, who was married to her sister, Caroline Lee Bouvier, at the time.
The timepiece was given to commemorate a 50-mile walk she and her husband, President John. F. Kennedy, took part in.
Michelle Obama wore the Tank Francaise Small Ladies Watch ($3,500) for her official White House portrait in 2009
The program was initiated by the 35th president to improve the health and fitness of the country, encouraging the American people to get out and exercise.
The inscription on the gold case back reads “Stas to Jackie 23 Feb. 63. 2:05 AM to 9:35 PM,” in what appears to be Stas’s handwriting. The times refer to the start and stop times of the walk on February 23, 1963.
Jackie O’s Cartier Tank went on the auction block at Christie’s on June 21, 2017 in The Rare Watches and American Icons New York sale.
The watch and a drawing Jackie made of the walk, sold for $379,500 to reality star Kim Kardashian.
Kim appropriately wore the piece when visiting former President Donald Trump at the White House to request a pardon on 63-year-old Alice Marie Johnson’s life sentence without the possibility of parole for a first-time nonviolent drug offense.
Like Jackie before her, Michelle was also the epitome of taste and elegance.
While attending official engagements with the President, current First lady, Jill Biden, wears one of the most distinctive designs in the collection, the Panthère de Cartier
She wore the Tank Française Small Ladies Watch ($3,500) for her official White House portrait in 2009.
The understated opulence of the stunning piece was the perfect complement to her sophistication.
Like her predecessor, current First Lady Jill Biden is also a fan of Carter timepieces.
While attending official engagements with the President, Jill wears one of the most distinctive designs in the collection, the Panthère de Cartier ($21,700). While it’s not the Tank, it’s just as classic.
Her timepiece features a yellow-gold case and quartz movement surrounding a silver dial with Roman numerals and the iconic Panthère bracelet.
The bracelet design is inspired by the pattern of a leopard, with the form and curving of the links.
A classic watch fit for a princess
In the 1980s, Princess Diana wore both the Tank Louis Cartier with a rounded gold face and leather strap, and the square-faced Tank Française, a gift from her father, John Spencer
The Cartier Tank was and will forever be a favorite of the most discerning style-setters, and that includes Diana
The Cartier Tank was and will forever be a favorite of the most discerning style-setters, and that includes the late Princess Diana.
The beloved royal embodied glamour, duty and elegance, and often used her wardrobe to make a statement.
In the 1980s, she wore both the Tank Louis Cartier with a rounded gold face and leather strap, and the square-faced Tank Française, a gift from her father, John Spencer.
Meghan Markle donned her mother-in-law’s Tank Watch paired with a Cartier Love Bangle to the Invictus Games Dusseldorf 2023 – One Year To Go launch in 2022
After her death, the latter went to Prince William who had been seen wearing it on multiple occasions prior to giving it to his younger brother, Harry.
Harry later gifted the sentimental piece to his wife, Meghan Markle, who often pairs the $22,000 heirloom with a Cartier Love Bangle.
From Oscar winners to rock royalty: the Cartier Tank has been worn by all
Music legends Mick Jagger and Keith Richards, of the Rolling Stones, both can’t resist the timeless allure of Cartier.
The frontman favors the contemporary Tank Française Watch boasting a Roman numeral dial and blue steel sword-shaped hands.
Rami Malek wore a Cartier Tank Americaine XL when receiving the Best Actor Oscar for his portrayal of Freddie Mercury in the blockbuster hit Bohemian Rhapsody
Patti Smith (pictured), Andy Warhol and Claudia Schiffer have all worn the timepiece
While his bandmate of over 60 years, Keith, prefers the Panthère de Cartier ($3,200-$241,000), known as the ‘jewelry watch’ thanks to the flexible gold chain bracelet paired with the square watch face with rounded corners.
To accept the Golden Globe for his portrayal of Freddie Mercury in the blockbuster hit, Bohemian Rhapsody, the Cartier Tank MC (listed as price upon request) was on Rami Malek’s wrist.
The actor was also wearing Cartier when he brought home his Academy Award for the same role – this time the Cartier Tank Américaine XL ($16,000).
American film actor Gary Cooper was known for his humble and understated acting style, and his wardrobe bode well with his character. The epitome of grace and sophistication, he naturally wore a Cartier Tank
In 2001, Paris and Nicky Hilton hit the red carpet of an event at a Target in North Hollywood wearing matching outfits. The sisters wore “got blow?” tank tops and skinny jeans. Paris accessorized with evil eye jewelry while her younger sister flaunted a Cartier Tank Française
The timepiece has also been worn by iconic legends such as Patti Smith, Andy Warhol and Claudia Schiffer.
Hollywood actor Gary Cooper was known for his humble and understated acting style, and his wardrobe bode well with his character – so naturally he wore a Cartier Tank.
Hotel heiress Nicky Hilton has also been spotted wearing a Cartier Tank Française, sometimes pairing it with unconventional outfits, such as the one above she wore with her sister, Paris, in 2001.
How the Cartier Tank evolved in design over the years
1917: ‘Normale’ Tank Watch
Inspired by military tanks on the battlefields of World War I, the Tank features a square face and an integrated strap held between two straight parallel brancards.
1921: Tank Cintrée
Cartier designed a rectangular case, and the curve was crafted to mirror the shape of the wrist.
1922: Tank Louis Cartier
Designed and worn by Louis Cartier himself, the case was stretched, brancards refined and edges softened.
1928: Tank A Guichets
The glass, dial and hands were replaced by plaques pierced with apertures that displayed segments of the discs, one indicating the hours and the other minutes.
1932: Tank Basculante
To protect the glass, the Tank Basculante watch featured a case that pivoted lengthwise within an articulated framework; the integrated winding mechanism was positioned at 12 o’clock.
1936: Tank Asymétrique
The face of the watch was shifted, with 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock moving into the corners, and the winding mechanism placed at 2 o’clock.
1952: Tank Rectangle
Featured a gold dial to match the gold case.
1960: Mini Tank Allongée
The Tank watch was given a makeover with a smaller case and brancards set with diamonds.
1970: Tank Must de Cartier
Following the form of 1922’s Louis Cartier Tank, the Must de Cartier featured dials in one color, no numbers and materials used in jewelry, including ivory, tortoiseshell and garnet.
1980: Tank Américaine
Envisioned in the ’80s, the watch features bolder dimensions to match the era; the shape of the case is longer and slightly curved.
2023: New Tank Francaise
Cartier has reimagine the Tank for 2023 with seven new models, including four in 18K yellow gold (one embellished with 23 brilliant cut diamonds) and three in stainless steel. The New Tank Francaise has more rounded brancards and a recessed crown, with mainly satin finishes.
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