What is the easiest way to upgrade any look? A waistcoat: How to dress like a grown up with SHANE WATSON
- Waistcoats are a smartener for mid to high-waisted, wider-legged trousers
- READ MORE: August in the office? Beware a style slip-up!
Let’s not beat about the bush. I’ve never had much time for waistcoats because — if I had to narrow it down — they seem a tad studied, like wearing a tie, or a one-shoulder dress.
Of course, I admired Diane Keaton’s Annie Hall look and Kate Moss’s 2007 Glastonbury waistcoat-worn-with-nothing-underneath and denim shorts.
But, for me, the moment has never arrived when it felt like a waistcoat was just what I needed.
Well, for lots of reasons, it has now. Finally, a waistcoat feels not like a superfluous add-on that may well make you look like a hotel concierge, but something flattering, cool and, above all, useful.
The first reason I’m on the hunt for a waistcoat — and you might be, too — is because they are an instant smartener for mid to high-waisted, wider-legged trousers.
Let’s not beat about the bush. I’ve never had much time for waistcoats because — if I had to narrow it down — they seem a tad studied, like wearing a tie, or a one-shoulder dress (Pictured Kate McKinnon)
A four-button tailored waistcoat in a crisp, neutral-coloured cotton, like Albary’s camel waistcoat (£35, albaray.co.uk), which just overlaps your trouser waistband is one of those items of clothing that will make you feel like you have splashed out on a couple of new looks.
If you’re a T-shirt lover, a waistcoat over a plain white T, worn with tonal trousers, is an instantly office-friendly look in a way that a T-shirt and trousers alone is not.
If you’re happy going bare-armed, the waistcoat and trousers combo — Albary does matching camel trousers (£55) — is effectively a sharp sleeveless trouser suit and can be dressed up in a jiffy for evening with earrings and shiny sandals.
Last but not least, nipped-in waistcoats buttoned up over full-sleeved blouses worn with wide-leg trousers or fluid long skirts look elegant for day or night now, and will keep looking good into the autumn.
At this particular point, I like a waistcoat because it’s the next step on from a tank top — smarter, sharper, keeping your top half looking neat and showing off your sleeves — and because they create a perfect contrast with the looser, slouchier trousers that have taken hold and are going nowhere.
If you’re a T-shirt lover, a waistcoat over a plain white T, worn with tonal trousers, is an instantly office-friendly look in a way that a T-shirt and trousers alone is not (Pictured Blake Lively)
The first reason I’m on the hunt for a waistcoat — and you might be, too — is because they are an instant smartener for mid to high-waisted, wider-legged trousers (Pictured: Leah Williamson)
I don’t want to wear a skimpy top; equally, I don’t want to look too baggy, and this way I can wear a boyfriend shirt or a floppy blouse and the tailored waistcoat on top will give me some definition.
It’s too early to get into a smart jacket and trousers, so this is the lighter alternative — a little tailoring to bring everything together.
Tips
- Keep buttons plain
- Keep the length hip-grazing
- Go for a four-button V neck
- Avoid wide lapels
Mango has a beige chalk pinstriped viscose waistcoat (£35.99, shop.mango.com) which you can wear now with matching tailored trousers (£49.99).
This one is a four-button with a V-neck (the only way to go) and two welt pockets, which is the maximum amount of detail you require.
Very important to keep your waistcoat plain, sharply tailored and mostly done up.
Waistcoats also solve the problem of what to do about your waistband: leave a puff of shirt flopping over the top? Wear a belt? It’s always tricky.
The right, four-button waistcoat (three is too short) sits comfortably just covering your waistband, and if you prefer a longer line, like Mango’s oversize brown waistcoat (£33, next.co.uk), then that will cover your hips, too.
A classic four-button black waistcoat is the no-brainer investment to wear with cream trousers or denim or to match with black trousers; think of it as the new-look tuxedo.
Try Massimo Dutti for black and pinstripe waistcoats (£69.95 and £89.95, massimodutti.com) or Jigsaw has a viscose hopsack weave style (£120, johnlewis.com).
I’ve also got my eye on one in dark navy wool by Autograph for Marks & Spencer (£65, marksand spencer.com) to wear with a stripy man’s shirt and jeans in the manner of Charlotte Rampling circa 1974.
When autumn arrives you may be in the mood to add a jacket to make a three-piece suit, but for me that’s a step too far (Pictured Vicky McClure)
Very important to keep your waistcoat plain, sharply tailored and mostly done up (Pictured Hayley Atwell)
Now jeans are back to being flared, baggy or at the very least bootcut, they cry out to be worn with a waistcoat. You’ll look instantly chic.
Some things to avoid. A halterneck, lapels, any fancy details. The texture of your waistcoat is all important: anything felty or ethnic is too relaxed for our purposes, anything silky too children’s entertainer.
Cotton, viscose, wool, maybe a subtle tweed is the best bet, as are muted neutral colours.
When autumn arrives you may be in the mood to add a jacket to make a three-piece suit, but for me that’s a step too far.
What will look great is a beige or brown wool waistcoat under a leather jacket or a dark wool waistcoat and pinstripe pants. Can’t wait.
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