Jamie Oliver’s chicken in milk, a smoky fish chowder and more recipes.
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By Sam Sifton
Good morning. I’ve been going at it with the maul and wedges lately after work, breaking down a large tree that fell in the yard, gnarled green wood that will age into fuel for smoked ribs, crackling pizza and grilled cabbage. The work leaves me sore and starving.
So I’d like to head into the weekend with a rib-sticker tonight: Sarah DiGregorio’s recipe for milk-braised pork shoulder out of the Instant Pot, for instance, or Jamie Oliver’s version made with chicken (above), braised in the oven.
Manicotti, maybe, or a vegetarian kimchi soondubu jjiagae? A smoky fish chowder for Lent? I’d love it if you would join me regardless of the recipe, and enter the fellowship of end-of-week cooking. It leads to restful weekends. It’s a balm, a kind of joy.
This weekend I’ll set myself up for St. Patrick’s Day, at the end of next week, and start a homemade corned beef that will cure into something far more delicious than you’ll ever find in a bag at the supermarket. I’ll bake steel-cut oats with nut butter for one breakfast, some morning glory muffins for another.
There’ll be a savory Dutch baby for lunch, perhaps, or a tuna crunch sandwich — maybe both, one after another.
And I could see bacon and onion pasta on the table for dinner on Saturday night, with an extra-lemony meringue pie for dessert. Followed by Hasselback kielbasa on Sunday, with a drift of mashed potatoes and, should someone at the farmers’ market have early, magical growth, a rhubarb poundcake afterward.
I might make Sunday sauce instead, though, or render a duck confit. I could imagine making these creamy vegan tofu noodles. It’s been a while since I baked caramelized banana pudding. The idea this weekend is just to throw myself into a different kind of labor, neither at the keyboard nor with an ax in hand. You could manage that, too, couldn’t you? Look at this world. We all need a break.
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Do write if you run into trouble with the technology. We’re at [email protected] Someone will get back to you. And you can write to me if you’d like to get something off your chest, or just to say hello. I’m at [email protected] I cannot respond to every letter. But I read every one I get.
Now, it has nothing to do with cake yeast or how to clean a cast-iron pan, but you really ought to take some time this weekend to binge Kim Barker’s amazing new Serial podcast, made with The New York Times, “The Coldest Case in Laramie.” It’s knotty and fascinating, both an investigation and a mesmerizing account of conflicting narratives and the imperfections of memory.
On the subject of podcasting, which is central to its plot, I’ve also been enjoying Rebecca Makkai’s new novel, “I Have Some Questions for You.” I think you will, too.
Finally, the Oscars are this weekend. Have you decided who’s going to win for Best Original Song? Listen to the nominees and make your decision. And I’ll see you on Sunday in time to see how you do.
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